Lessons in Surfing

Fear, habit tracking, and order in chaos.

When I moved to LA a little over a year ago, I decided to take up surfing as a hobby. I figured it would be an individual challenge, cheaper than golf, and add some much-needed structure to a year full of change. My understanding of the sport was that it was unapproachable and included far too much shark-based risk. With the help of a few lessons and some new friends, it became a consistent habit, approaching an addiction. The experience was not what I expected, and as an exercise in reflection, and getting back to writing, here are a few lessons I learned and would like to apply in my life on land.

1. Your greatest fear is not always what matters.

Ever since I was a kid, I have associated deep water with sharks. Even on a freshwater lake, I still have trouble avoiding that chilling feeling of the unknown below the waterline. I thought this would be my most significant barrier to surfing and was determined to grind it out over many sessions. I quickly realized, however, that there was a far more present danger… waves. The more I learned about the power of the ocean, the less time I had to focus on the movie Jaws. My focus moved to the horizon and any sign that a set wave (read: rogue wave) was planning to crash on my head. Looking ahead to new challenges, I realize that you shouldn’t let an initial fear cause hesitation. Once you’re involved, the real priorities will reveal themselves.

2. You can conquer a steep learning curve with a habit tracker and time.

Once I got used to floating around on a board in the ocean, I set to catching my first wave. I was given tons of pointers: eyes on the horizon, legs together, hands under your chest, weight on your front foot, and so on. It was a lot to think about, and at the same time, I wasn’t seeing much improvement. After the first few sessions, I decided to start a surf journal. I kept track of the day, location, conditions, and equipment, in addition to general notes. I could then reflect on what went well, if I saw any wildlife, and most importantly, what I needed to focus on for next time. By writing down my sessions, I was internalizing the lessons and making progress easier to track. After a few more surfs, I was able to reframe some of the frustration and really enjoy the learning curve ahead. A bad session is now a learning experience, small wins feel like a leap forward, and if I get frustrated, I know what cue to focus on for the session.

3. Trust your pattern recognition to find order in chaos.

One of the most difficult parts of surfing, especially early on, is just getting in the right spot. There are so many factors to consider: overlapping ocean swells, the wind, tide, sandbars, and the location of other surfers. Even if you could sort all that out, you still have to figure out how to triangulate yourself and not get dragged down the beach by a riptide. I was surprised, however, that after a few hours of staring at the horizon, my mind started to recognize patterns. With that extra bit of order, I was able to identify rideable waves and judge which direction they were going to break. Of course, there will always be surprises, but trusting that intuition, your gut feeling, will improve the amount of times you’re in the right spot. In most pursuits, that’s what matters most.